A tight squeeze

Fresh fruit juice is widely regarded as being beneficial to health, which is probably why they're so popular. Often consumed by those with hectic lifestyles, they offer an easy way to top up on vitamins and fibre whilst hurrying to and from work. But for fruit farmers in the South (and closer to home), our insatiable appetite for fresh juice may mean longer working hours, lower wages and fewer labour rights than ever before.

That 'freshly-squeezed,' 'tropical' juice drink might taste great � but before it reached the supermarket someone, somewhere, had to put in a very long day to ensure the pulp made it onto the plane. When supermarkets demand same-day delivery, fruit farm workers face unplanned overtime, often arriving at work in the morning not knowing when they will be allowed to leave. This is a particular problem for women with children, who make up a significant proportion of the workforce on fruit farms. Even when transporting by ship, farms' packing departments must meet tight deadlines to export orders on time.(2)

Fruit harvested within western Europe is likely to have been produced under more bearable conditions than in many other parts of the world, but there is no way of guaranteeing this. Fruit plantations in most countries, including Britain, make use of low-wage, casual labour.(2) According to Oxfam, the "inherently risky" fresh produce industry is made even more precarious by fruit buyers' tactics. Orange juice, for example, is traded as a commodity, like oil, and countries are pitted against one another in online auctions in the quest to provide purchasers with better- quality produce, at lower prices, and at increasingly short notice.

"Only a very small proportion of the fruit is traded under a signed, legally binding contract," one Chilean fruit exporter told Oxfam researchers. "It can sound incredible, but it is that informal."(2) The nature of the trade enables buyers to delay payments and cancel orders at will, leaving farmers to turn to even more volatile wholesale markets. It's no wonder they're desperate to cut costs. As always, it's the workers at the bottom on the heap, such as South African fruit picker Ragel, who suffer the most:
"As a casual worker, I do not get a bonus, or paid holiday or severance pay. I am looking for a place to stay so that I can collect all my children to stay with me. To be a mother with my chickens under my wings."(2)

Oxfam wants consumers to put pressure on retailers and drinks companies to ensure that their sourcing and purchasing practices support, rather than undermine, workers' rights.(2) Specifically, it recommends that shoppers:

Concentrate!
Roughly half of the juice sold in this country is UHT (ultra-heat treated long-life juice), which has a long shelf-life and is made from concentrated juice, or 'concentrate.' Concentrate is produced by squeezing the fruit and freezing the juice, which is then usually shipped to its country of destination to be reconstituted with the addition of water.(1) Freshly-squeezed juice must reach stores within 24 hours of being pulped and is usually transported by air. Smoothies can be made from either freshly squeezed or concentrated juice.

Aircraft are the most environmentally damaging form of transport, emitting huge quantities of carbon dioxide � a leading cause of climate change. Marks & Spencer was recently slated after boasting in a newspaper advert that its 'jet-set' pineapple juice was flown all the way from Ghana so that it reached stores within 48 hours.(20) Shipping is far less harmful, so it seems sensible to assume that juice produced from concentrate has a lower environmental impact, in terms of 'food miles,' than the freshly-squeezed stuff. But where, exactly, is the fruit grown? We contacted all of the companies on the table, asking them to disclose which countries they bought produce from. As seasons differ throughout the world, companies tend to buy from a range of countries to ensure a year-round supply of ripe fruit. Fresh Trading, the company behind the Innocent Drinks brand, says: "We do follow the sun around the world." In spring, it buys oranges from such bastions of human rights as Egypt, Morocco and Jamaica, whereas in summer, it tends to source them from Brazil, South Africa and Argentina. "Our blueberries are from Canada, our mangoes are from India and our strawberries are from Poland," it adds.(21)

It's generally acknowledged that locally-produced fruit is preferable to organic varieties that have been transported half-way around the world, but, due to their very nature, many fruit juices will originate from abroad. Orange juice is by far the most popular choice, accounting for three out of every four cartons on shop shelves.(22) Unless you're lucky enough to live in Seville, you won't see many orange trees lining your local high street. Apple juices, particularly those labelled as 'made in the UK,' will be the best option in this respect.

The other ethical issues linked to fruit might seem obvious. Most of us would prefer to drink organic, GM-free juice from locally produced fruit, or smoothies blended using the milk of happy cows. There are some environmentally progressive companies involved in the sector, but pesticide use and 'food miles' remain real problems.

Organic and GM-free?
The company that produces the Biona brand only makes organic products and is committed to organic agriculture.(23) Biotta's entire range is organic, and has been for over 50 years. Its products are accredited by Bio Suisse, the Swiss equivalent of the Soil Association. (35) At the time of writing, companies carrying this label were required to abstain from using chemical or synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, genetic engineering and unnecessary additives such as flavourings and colourings; and to undergo independent inspection of organic farming and produce processing. (25)

The Grove Fresh brand, widely available in supermarkets, is certified by the Soil Association, but its parent company, United Foods International, appears to have entered the organic sector purely for economic reasons. In the past few years it has focused on expanding into the non-organic market on mainland Europe. (26)

Products sold under the Gusto Organic and Formula 5 labels are certified by the Soil Association and are GM-free. PepsiCo, Ocean Spray Cranberries and the Campbell Soup Company didn't respond to our written requests for information on organic certification and GMOs; nor did they publish such data on their websites when we looked. (27-29) A quick glance at their records on GM reveals why they're probably keeping quiet.

In 2002, Greenpeace reported that several varieties of Ocean Spray fruit drinks sold in the US contained genetically engineered ingredients. (30) PepsiCo is said to be one of a number of companies which funded the "Coalition Against the Costly Labeling Law" � a lobby group which reportedly attempted to defeat a ballot initiative in Oregon, US, that aimed to make the labelling of genetically modified foods compulsory throughout the state. (31) The Campbell Soup Company licensed the first- ever GM product. Campaigners have urged it to stop using gene-spliced ingredients in its soup, bread and juice, although it should be noted that at the time of writing, Campbell's was thought to sell little, if any, bio-engineered food in Europe. (32)

Own-label organics
Commendably, several supermarkets now offer own-label organic fruit juice. But with the honourable exception of the Co-op, which has a policy of disclosing all of its suppliers, supermarket chains regard the names of their suppliers as a closely guarded secret. For this reason, we have omitted 'own-brands' from this report, and discourage ethical consumers from their products generally.

Five-a-day fibs
Fruit is vital for a healthy diet as it's packed with vitamins, minerals and fibre. The UK government is keen to persuade us to eat five portions of fruit and vegetables a day, as it reduces the risk of heart disease, strokes and cancer. For those struggling to consume the recommended 'five-a-day,' fruit juice can help. A glass of 100 per cent fruit (or vegetable) juice counts as one portion. But it's no use downing a litre of orange juice and feasting on chips for the rest of the day. No matter how much you drink, fruit juice will only meet one-fifth of your daily requirement. This is because most of the fibre contained within fruit is found in the skin.

Some food manufacturers have taken advantage of the government's healthy eating campaign by making irresponsible claims about the health benefits of their products. According to the Food Commission's Food magazine, information on a Campbell's soup carton claimed that the product provided four of a person's five daily portions of fruit and vegetables. The Food Commission reported that these claims would not be permissible under the Department of Health's current 'five a day' guidelines. (45)

In 2003, the government launched a new 'five-a-day' logo to prevent food companies from making irresponsible health claims.

Not all fruit drinks are packed with goodness. Those described as fruit juice must contain 100% juice, (1) but beverages containing additives are often positioned next to pure juice in shops. (46) Kath Dalmeny, Policy Officer for the Food Commission, says the term 'juice drink' "typically means watered-down juice, with colours, flavours, and sugar or sweeteners." (48) Such drinks' use of prominent fruit imagery, and language such as 'pure heaven' and 'Fruit Burst,' seldom reflects the actual fruit content. (48) Furthermore, the Food Commission recently found that some 'tropical juice blends' were more likely to burn a hole in your pocket than improve your health. According to its research, Sunpride Tropical Juice Drink contained just ten per cent juice, and that it would cost �6.90 to buy the equivalent real fruit juice per litre. The researchers also discovered that the real-fruit equivalent of certain Princes juice drinks would cost �6.27, and that some of Del Monte's would cost �5.07. (48) The Commission claimed that the worst culprit was Ribena, which contained a measly six per cent actual juice and would cost �34 per litre if made entirely from real juice. (48)

Fruit drinks can do more than quench thirst and dent pockets. Despite being considered a healthy alternative to fizzy drinks, some contain as much sugar as several packets of sweets. Which? magazine found that many drinks contained more sugar per 100ml than Coca-Cola. The sweetest, Del Monte Fruit Burst, contained a whopping six teaspoons of sugar - that's sixty per cent more that its pure orange juice. (49)

Readers following a vegan or kosher diet should beware. The rosy hue of Ocean Spray's pink-grapefruit juice sold in the US is said to be enhanced with cochineal extract, according to Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser. Also known as carmine or carminic acid, this commonly used food dye is made from the dried and ground-up bodies of female Dactylopius coccus Costa, a small insect. (74)

Codes of conduct
According to Oxfam, codes of conduct - documents that address working conditions at supplier companies - are now commonplace in the fresh produce industry.(2) Although this is a step in the right direction, Oxfam reports that these codes are often "heavily focused on technical, not ethical, standards [such as those relating to pesticide use], aiming to ensure healthy and safe food for consumers, but not decent and secure jobs for workers." (2) A recent survey found that only 13 per cent of farm workers in South Africa had heard of codes of conduct, and that just three per cent of them knew that such codes related to workers' rights. (2)

We contacted all of the companies on the table requesting copies of their codes of conduct. JP Juices doesn't have one, but all of its products, including those it supplies to Co-op supermarkets, are certified as Fairtrade. (3) It therefore receives a clear mark in the 'code of conduct' column on the table.

Several other companies responded to our requests for information , but for one reason or another don't receive a clear mark in the 'code of conduct' column. Although Del Monte Foods International told us that it doesn't have a code of conduct, it was keen to engage in dialogue with us on the subject. (4) Its Kenyan subsidiary does have a code, which has apparently been independently verified and which states that Del Monte personnel are entitled to unionise. (5)

Gerber Foods, the immediate owner of the Fruit Passion and Sunpride brands, sent us some information relating to the workers' rights of the suppliers of its Fairtrade-certified Fruit Passion brand, (6) and a code addressing child labour. The policy said that trade union members should not be discriminated against in the workplace, but did not appear to have been independently monitored � a key demand of labour rights campaigners. (7)

Mitsubishi subsidiary, Princes, sent Ethical Consumer a copy of its ethical trading policy, but could not provide a code of conduct or any information relating to its production of fruit juice. (8)

Tropicana's website contained a code of conduct, but it made no reference to collective bargaining and did not appear to have been independently verified. (9)

The companies behind the Biotta, Campbell's, Eden, Grove Fresh, Ocean Spray and Stute brands neither sent us copies of their codes of conduct nor displayed such policies on their websites when viewed by the authors.

Windmill Organics is a progressive company with regards to the environment � all of their products are certified as organic. But although it was keen to engage with our requests for information, it was not able to supply us with a code of conduct addressing workers' rights at supplier companies in time for inclusion in this report. (18, 19)

References
1 Smoothies, Mintel, 2002
2 'Trading Away Our Rights,' Oxfam International, 2004
3 Telephone conversation between Lauren Steadman of ECRA and Tim Kearns of JP Juices, 6/7/04
4 Email from press officer of Del Monte Foods International, 2/7/04
5 Del Monte Kenya Ltd. code of conduct 2004
6 Gerber Foods Soft Drinks code of conduct, 1/7/04
7 'Standards to be observed in the conduct of business,' Gerber Foods Soft Drinks, 1/11/02
8 Multinational Monitor, 1/12/00
9 PepsiCo Environment Report 2003 10 Pete & Johnny plc Environment Policy, 1/7/04
18 Telephone conversation between Lauren Steadman of ECRA and Tania Smith of Soma Smoothies Ltd., 15/6/04
19 Email from Tania Smith of Soma Smoothies Ltd., 16/6/04
20 The Ecologist, April 2004
21 www.innocentdrinks.co.uk viewed on 1/7/04
22 www.fairtrade.org.uk/products_fruit_juices.htm viewed on 7/7/04
24 www.biotta.ch, viewed on 1/7/04
25 www.bio-suisse.ch, viewed on 1/7/04
26 www.fasttrack.co.uk viewed on 8/7/04
30 www.truefoodnow.org, viewed on 16/10/02
31 www.transnationale.org, viewed on 2/10/02
32 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed on 4/7/04
33 Pete & Johnny plc Environment Policy, 1/7/04
35 Telephone conversation with director of Windmill Organics on 1/4/04
43 Telephone conversation between Lindsay Whalen and a representative of Gerber Foods Soft Drinks, 6/7/04
44 www.babymilkaction.org, viewed on 1/7/04
45 Food magazine, issue 61, 1/4/03
46 ECRA shop survey, 2/6/04
47 www.innocentdrinks.co.uk, viewed on 8/7/04
48 'Food Commission, 7/7/04
49 The Food Commission, 29/1/04
50 'Soft drinks or liquid candy?,' the Food Commission, 29/1/04
51 the Food Commission Guide to Additives, 2001
53 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed on 20/7/00
54 Who Owns Whom 2003/04
55 www.alfcio.org, viewed in 2003
56 Email from company secretary, Del Monte Foods International, 2/7/04
57 The Ecologist, May 2002
58 www.ethicalcorporation.com, viewed on 24/6/02
60 Email from Baby Milk Action, 1/9/03
61 Council on Economic Priorities, 1999
62 Green Pepper, Autumn 2000
63 www.warprofiteers.com, viewed on 18/12/03
64 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed in 2003
66 www.imfmetal.com, viewed on 25/11/02
67 Multinational Monitor, December 2000
68 Jane's International Defence Directory, 2004
69 www.saveourearth.co.uk, viewed on 5/7/04
70 Rainforest Action Network, December 2000
71 www.boycottbush.net, June 2004
72 www.alfcio.org, viewed in 2004
73 www.truefoodnow.org, viewed in October 2002
74 'The bitter truth about fast food,' Eric Schlosser, the Guardian, 7/4/01
75 www.fairtrade.org.uk/products_fruit_juices_buy.htm, viewed in July 2004