A tight squeeze
p>
Fresh fruit juice is perfect
for a summer's day, but could they leave a bitter aftertaste? Lauren Steadman
and Lindsay Whalen investigate.
Fresh fruit juice is widely regarded as being
beneficial to health, which is probably why they're so popular. Often
consumed by those with hectic lifestyles, they offer an easy way to top up on
vitamins and fibre whilst hurrying to and from work. But for fruit farmers in
the South (and closer to home), our insatiable appetite for fresh juice may mean
longer working hours, lower wages and fewer labour rights than ever before.
That 'freshly-squeezed,' 'tropical' juice drink might taste great � but before it
reached the supermarket someone, somewhere, had to put in a very long day to ensure
the pulp made it onto the plane. When supermarkets demand same-day delivery, fruit
farm workers face unplanned overtime, often arriving at work in the morning not
knowing when they will be allowed to leave. This is a particular problem for women
with children, who make up a significant proportion of the workforce on fruit farms.
Even when transporting by ship, farms' packing departments must meet tight deadlines
to export orders on time.(2)
Fruit harvested within western Europe is likely to have been
produced under more bearable conditions than in many other parts of the world, but
there is no way of guaranteeing this. Fruit plantations in most countries, including
Britain, make use of low-wage, casual labour.(2) According to Oxfam, the "inherently
risky" fresh produce industry is made even more precarious by fruit buyers' tactics.
Orange juice, for example, is traded as a commodity, like oil, and countries are pitted
against one another in online auctions in the quest to provide purchasers with better-
quality produce, at lower prices, and at increasingly short notice.
"Only a very small proportion of the fruit is traded under a signed,
legally binding contract," one Chilean fruit exporter told Oxfam researchers. "It can
sound incredible, but it is that informal."(2) The nature of the trade enables buyers to
delay payments and cancel orders at will, leaving farmers to turn to even more volatile
wholesale markets. It's no wonder they're desperate to cut costs. As always, it's the
workers at the bottom on the heap, such as South African fruit picker Ragel, who suffer
the most:
"As a casual worker, I do not get a bonus, or paid holiday or severance pay. I am
looking for a place to stay so that I can collect all my children to stay with me. To be a
mother with my chickens under my wings."(2)
Oxfam wants consumers to put pressure on retailers and drinks
companies to ensure that their sourcing and purchasing practices support, rather than
undermine, workers' rights.(2) Specifically, it recommends that shoppers:
Buy Fairtrade products
Demand that retailers and drinks companies adopt a clear commitment
to implement international labour standards in all of their supply chains,
and ensure adequate monitoring and independent verification
Insist that companies are transparent about where and how
their products are made, their policies and practices, and the impacts
of these upon employment terms and working conditions in their
supply chains.(2)
Concentrate!
Roughly half of the juice sold in this country is UHT (ultra-heat treated long-life juice),
which has a long shelf-life and is made from concentrated juice, or 'concentrate.'
Concentrate is produced by squeezing the fruit and freezing the juice, which is then
usually shipped to its country of destination to be reconstituted with the addition of
water.(1) Freshly-squeezed juice must reach stores within 24 hours of being pulped and
is usually transported by air. Smoothies can be made from either freshly squeezed or
concentrated juice.
Aircraft are the most environmentally damaging form of transport,
emitting huge quantities of carbon dioxide � a leading cause of climate change. Marks &
Spencer was recently slated after boasting in a newspaper advert that its 'jet-set'
pineapple juice was flown all the way from Ghana so that it reached stores within 48
hours.(20) Shipping is far less harmful, so it seems sensible to assume that juice
produced from concentrate has a lower environmental impact, in terms of 'food miles,'
than the freshly-squeezed stuff. But where, exactly, is the fruit grown? We contacted all
of the companies on the table, asking them to disclose which countries they bought
produce from. As seasons differ throughout the world, companies tend to buy from a
range of countries to ensure a year-round supply of ripe fruit. Fresh Trading, the
company behind the Innocent Drinks brand, says: "We do follow the sun around the
world." In spring, it buys oranges from such bastions of human rights as Egypt, Morocco
and Jamaica, whereas in summer, it tends to source them from Brazil, South Africa and
Argentina. "Our blueberries are from Canada, our mangoes are from India and our
strawberries are from Poland," it adds.(21)
It's generally acknowledged that locally-produced fruit is preferable
to organic varieties that have been transported half-way around the world, but, due to
their very nature, many fruit juices will originate from abroad. Orange juice is by far
the most popular choice, accounting for three out of every four cartons on shop
shelves.(22) Unless you're lucky enough to live in Seville, you won't see many orange
trees lining your local high street. Apple juices, particularly those labelled as 'made in
the UK,' will be the best option in this respect.
The other ethical issues linked to fruit might seem obvious. Most of us
would prefer to drink organic, GM-free juice from locally produced fruit, or smoothies
blended using the milk of happy cows. There are some environmentally progressive
companies involved in the sector, but pesticide use and 'food miles' remain real
problems.
Organic and GM-free?
The company that produces the Biona brand only makes organic products and is
committed to organic agriculture.(23) Biotta's entire range is organic, and has been for
over 50 years. Its products are accredited by Bio Suisse, the Swiss equivalent of the Soil
Association. (35) At the time of writing, companies carrying this label were required to
abstain from using chemical or synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, genetic engineering
and unnecessary additives such as flavourings and colourings; and to undergo
independent inspection of organic farming and produce processing. (25)
The Grove Fresh brand, widely available in supermarkets, is certified
by the Soil Association, but its parent company, United Foods International, appears to
have entered the organic sector purely for economic reasons. In the past few years it
has focused on expanding into the non-organic market on mainland Europe. (26)
Products sold under the Gusto Organic and Formula 5
labels are certified by the Soil Association and are GM-free. PepsiCo, Ocean Spray
Cranberries and the Campbell Soup Company didn't respond to our written requests for
information on organic certification and GMOs; nor did they publish such data on their
websites when we looked. (27-29) A quick glance at their records on GM reveals why
they're probably keeping quiet.
In 2002, Greenpeace reported that several varieties of Ocean Spray
fruit drinks sold in the US contained genetically engineered ingredients. (30) PepsiCo is
said to be one of a number of companies which funded the "Coalition Against the Costly
Labeling Law" � a lobby group which reportedly attempted to defeat a ballot initiative
in Oregon, US, that aimed to make the labelling of genetically modified foods
compulsory throughout the state. (31) The Campbell Soup Company licensed the first-
ever GM product. Campaigners have urged it to stop using gene-spliced ingredients in its
soup, bread and juice, although it should be noted that at the time of writing,
Campbell's was thought to sell little, if any, bio-engineered food in Europe. (32)
Own-label organics
Commendably, several supermarkets now offer own-label organic fruit juice. But with
the honourable exception of the Co-op, which has a policy of disclosing all of its
suppliers, supermarket chains regard the names of their suppliers as a closely guarded
secret. For this reason, we have omitted 'own-brands' from this report, and discourage
ethical consumers from their products generally.
Five-a-day fibs
Fruit is vital for a healthy diet as it's packed with vitamins, minerals and fibre. The UK
government is keen to persuade us to eat five portions of fruit and vegetables a day, as
it reduces the risk of heart disease, strokes and cancer. For those struggling to consume
the recommended 'five-a-day,' fruit juice can help. A glass of 100 per cent fruit (or
vegetable) juice counts as one portion. But it's no use downing a litre of orange juice
and feasting on chips for the rest of the day. No matter how much you drink, fruit juice
will only meet one-fifth of your daily requirement. This is because most of the fibre
contained within fruit is found in the skin.
Some food manufacturers have taken advantage of the government's
healthy eating campaign by making irresponsible claims about the health benefits of
their products. According to the Food Commission's Food magazine, information on a
Campbell's soup carton claimed that the product provided four of a person's five daily
portions of fruit and vegetables. The Food Commission reported that these claims would
not be permissible under the Department of Health's current 'five a day' guidelines.
(45)
In 2003, the government launched a new 'five-a-day'
logo to prevent food companies from making irresponsible health claims.
Not all fruit drinks are packed with goodness. Those described as fruit
juice must contain 100% juice, (1) but beverages containing additives are often
positioned next to pure juice in shops. (46) Kath Dalmeny, Policy Officer for the Food
Commission, says the term 'juice drink' "typically means watered-down juice, with
colours, flavours, and sugar or sweeteners." (48) Such drinks' use of prominent fruit
imagery, and language such as 'pure heaven' and 'Fruit Burst,' seldom reflects the
actual fruit content. (48) Furthermore, the Food Commission recently found that some
'tropical juice blends' were more likely to burn a hole in your pocket than improve your
health. According to its research, Sunpride Tropical Juice Drink contained just ten per
cent juice, and that it would cost �6.90 to buy the equivalent real fruit juice per litre.
The researchers also discovered that the real-fruit equivalent of certain Princes juice
drinks would cost �6.27, and that some of Del Monte's would cost �5.07. (48) The
Commission claimed that the worst culprit was Ribena, which contained a measly six per
cent actual juice and would cost �34 per litre if made entirely from real juice. (48)
Fruit drinks can do more than quench thirst and dent pockets. Despite
being considered a healthy alternative to fizzy drinks, some contain as much sugar as
several packets of sweets. Which? magazine found that many drinks contained more
sugar per 100ml than Coca-Cola. The sweetest, Del Monte Fruit Burst, contained a
whopping six teaspoons of sugar - that's sixty per cent more that its pure orange juice.
(49)
Readers following a vegan or kosher diet should beware. The rosy hue
of Ocean Spray's pink-grapefruit juice sold in the US is said to be enhanced with
cochineal extract, according to Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser. Also known as
carmine or carminic acid, this commonly used food dye is made from the dried and
ground-up bodies of female Dactylopius coccus Costa, a small insect. (74)
Codes of conduct
According to Oxfam, codes of conduct - documents that address working conditions at
supplier companies - are now commonplace in the fresh produce industry.(2) Although
this is a step in the right direction, Oxfam reports that these codes are often "heavily
focused on technical, not ethical, standards [such as those relating to pesticide use],
aiming to ensure healthy and safe food for consumers, but not decent and secure jobs
for workers." (2) A recent survey found that only 13 per cent of farm workers in South
Africa had heard of codes of conduct, and that just three per cent of them knew that
such codes related to workers' rights. (2)
We contacted all of the companies on the table requesting copies of
their codes of conduct. JP Juices doesn't have one, but all of its products, including
those it supplies to Co-op supermarkets, are certified as Fairtrade. (3) It therefore
receives a clear mark in the 'code of conduct' column on the table.
Several other companies responded to our requests for information ,
but for one reason or another don't receive a clear mark in the 'code of conduct'
column. Although Del Monte Foods International told us that it doesn't have a code of
conduct, it was keen to engage in dialogue with us on the subject. (4) Its Kenyan
subsidiary does have a code, which has apparently been independently verified and
which states that Del Monte personnel are entitled to unionise. (5)
Gerber Foods, the immediate owner of the Fruit Passion and Sunpride
brands, sent us some information relating to the workers' rights of the suppliers of its
Fairtrade-certified Fruit Passion brand, (6) and a code addressing child labour. The
policy said that trade union members should not be discriminated against in the
workplace, but did not appear to have been independently monitored � a key demand
of labour rights campaigners. (7)
Mitsubishi subsidiary, Princes, sent Ethical Consumer a copy of its
ethical trading policy, but could not provide a code of conduct or any information
relating to its production of fruit juice. (8)
Tropicana's website contained a code of conduct, but it made no
reference to collective bargaining and did not appear to have been independently
verified. (9)
The companies behind the Biotta,
Campbell's, Eden, Grove Fresh, Ocean Spray and Stute brands neither
sent us copies of their codes of conduct nor displayed such policies on their websites
when viewed by the authors.
Windmill Organics is a progressive company
with regards to the environment � all of their products are certified as organic. But
although it was keen to engage with our requests for information,
it was not able to supply us with a code of conduct addressing workers' rights at
supplier companies in time for inclusion in this report. (18, 19)
References
1 Smoothies, Mintel, 2002
2 'Trading Away Our Rights,' Oxfam International, 2004
3 Telephone conversation between Lauren Steadman of ECRA and Tim Kearns of JP Juices, 6/7/04
4 Email from press officer of Del Monte Foods International, 2/7/04
5 Del Monte Kenya Ltd. code of conduct 2004
6 Gerber Foods Soft Drinks code of conduct, 1/7/04
7 'Standards to be observed in the conduct of business,' Gerber Foods Soft Drinks, 1/11/02
8 Multinational Monitor, 1/12/00
9 PepsiCo Environment Report 2003
10 Pete & Johnny plc Environment Policy, 1/7/04
18 Telephone conversation between Lauren Steadman of
ECRA and Tania Smith of Soma Smoothies Ltd., 15/6/04
19 Email from Tania Smith of Soma Smoothies Ltd., 16/6/04
20 The Ecologist, April 2004
21 www.innocentdrinks.co.uk viewed on 1/7/04
22 www.fairtrade.org.uk/products_fruit_juices.htm viewed on 7/7/04
24 www.biotta.ch, viewed on 1/7/04
25 www.bio-suisse.ch, viewed on 1/7/04
26 www.fasttrack.co.uk viewed
on 8/7/04
30 www.truefoodnow.org, viewed on 16/10/02
31
www.transnationale.org, viewed on 2/10/02
32 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed
on 4/7/04
33 Pete & Johnny plc Environment Policy, 1/7/04
35 Telephone
conversation with director of Windmill Organics on 1/4/04
43 Telephone
conversation between Lindsay Whalen and a representative of Gerber Foods Soft
Drinks, 6/7/04
44 www.babymilkaction.org, viewed on 1/7/04
45 Food magazine,
issue 61, 1/4/03
46 ECRA shop survey, 2/6/04
47 www.innocentdrinks.co.uk,
viewed on 8/7/04
48 'Food Commission, 7/7/04
49 The Food Commission, 29/1/04
50 'Soft drinks or liquid candy?,' the Food Commission, 29/1/04
51 the Food
Commission Guide to Additives, 2001
53 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed on
20/7/00
54 Who Owns Whom 2003/04
55 www.alfcio.org, viewed in 2003
56 Email from company secretary, Del Monte Foods International, 2/7/04
57 The Ecologist,
May 2002
58 www.ethicalcorporation.com, viewed on 24/6/02
60 Email from Baby
Milk Action, 1/9/03
61 Council on Economic Priorities, 1999
62 Green Pepper,
Autumn 2000
63 www.warprofiteers.com, viewed on 18/12/03
64 www.responsibleshopper.org, viewed in 2003
66 www.imfmetal.com, viewed on
25/11/02
67 Multinational Monitor, December 2000
68 Jane's International Defence Directory, 2004
69 www.saveourearth.co.uk, viewed on 5/7/04
70 Rainforest Action Network, December 2000
71 www.boycottbush.net, June 2004
72 www.alfcio.org, viewed in 2004
73 www.truefoodnow.org, viewed in October 2002
74 'The bitter truth about fast food,' Eric Schlosser, the Guardian, 7/4/01
75 www.fairtrade.org.uk/products_fruit_juices_buy.htm, viewed in July 2004