Sunscreens
Saving our skins or causing us health problems in the
future? Ruth Rosselson applies a walnut sized dollop and investigates.
Every summer we are urged to cover ourselves frequently with sunscreen in order to protect us from sunburn, ageing and possibly skin cancer. However, there is a growing body of evidence that the chemicals contained in these products could be doing us more harm than good.
Although the use of sunscreen has been rising, the rates of
skin cancer continue to increase.(1) Some studies have even linked regular
sunscreen use to higher rates of certain types of skin cancers.(2) This
could be down to a number of reasons. Sunscreens seem to encourage a false
sense of security and so we spend longer in the sun than we should.(2) We
also often don’t apply lotion as regularly or as thickly as is recommended.(1)
However, the other, more worrying, theory is that some of the ingredients
used in sunscreens could also be responsible.
Ingredients
There are a number of individual ingredients that concern
campaigners. Some of the main ones are listed below. Unfortunately, as not
all of the ingredients are listed on all products, it has not been possible
to compile a comparison table for brands and their associated ingredients.
- Parabens These are preservatives and thought to be oestrogen
mimics.(4) Excess oestrogen has been linked to certain cancers, including
breast cancer. A recent survey found a high concentration of parabens
in breast tissue taken from women with breast cancer although as yet,
there is no suggestion of a direct link.(5) Some formulas made by the
following brands contained parabens in May 2006: Ambre Solaire, Banana
Boat, The Body Shop, Calypso, Clarins, Malibu, Nivea, Piz Buin and Soltan.
- Parfum This could appear in the form of artificial musks which
are "persistent and bioaccumulative".(6) These chemicals have been "linked
with reproductive toxicity and effects on the endocrine system in humans."(6)
We found parfum listed as an ingredient in Ambre Solaire, Body Shop, Calypso,
Clarins, Malibu, Nivea and Piz Buin.
- Phthalates have been linked to decreased fertility in females
and faulty reproductive development in male foetuses because of their
hormone disrupting properties.(7) Phthalates are rarely listed on the
label.
- Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) Experiments in Norway found that
low doses killed mouse cells(8) and that it became more toxic after exposure
to the sun. The concern is that it could damage human cells if it penetrated
the skin.(8) OMC is found in 90% of suntan lotions.
- PABA and PABA esters PABA and its derivatives were shown to
damage DNA in test tube experiments.(9) Dr Knowland of Oxford University
commented that while it was too early to make blanket recommendations,
"I would not use a product containing PABA, Padimate-O or other PABA derivatives."(10)
Honesty and Calypso were the only two brands we found which contained
PABA derivatives.
The following brands do not contain any of the aforementioned ingredients:
Dr Hauschka, Weleda, Green People, Urtekram and Lavera.
While the individual ingredients used in sunscreens are of concern, the
combination of chemicals could also be problematic. A British biochemist
is quoted as having suggested that "the cocktail of chemicals involved in
sunscreens could be converted into �free radical' molecules, which could
cause cell damage and lead to cancer".(3)
Natural cosmetics
Consumers wishing to avoid the chemical nasties are now turning
to more ‘natural’ creams, which are increasingly available. We’ve
included a small number of companies who claim to only use natural plant-based
ingredients and organic ingredients where possible. These are: Dr Hauschka,
Green People, Lavera and Urtekram.
The new GM?
The trouble with ‘natural’ cosmetics is that at
least some of them are making use of nanotechnology - the use of extremely
small particles and structures. The nano-sized ingredient used is zinc or
titanium dioxide which reflect the UV rays, blocking the sun. However, there
has been little research into the health implications of using particles
of this size. There is concern that they could be inhaled or absorbed through
the skin, and we don’t know as yet about the health consequences of
this. The trouble with nanoparticles is that it’s thought that they
can behave very differently from larger particles of the same material and
could therefore be toxic in the minute form.12 A Royal Academy of Engineering
and The Royal Society report expressed concern about nanoparticles and recommended
that they be treated as new chemicals under UK and European legislation.
However, so far, “studies have yet to find that nanoparticles in sunscreens
are absorbed deep into the skin.”(12)
At present, there is no obligation on manufacturers to label nano-particles.
Green People, criticised for using nano-titanium dioxide in its sunscreen,
claims that the mineral does not penetrate the skin or lead to the formation
of free-radicals.13 Dr Hauschka, Urtekram and Weleda all say that their
titanium dioxide particles are not nano and do not penetrate the skin. Lavera
was unable to answer our question. Many of the non-natural sunscreens may
also have used nano-particles, including Boots Soltan brand, The Body Shop’s
suntan lotion and some L’Oréal products.(14)
Although the use of nanotechnology is worrying, it seems to be less of a
concern than the chemicals used in the mainstream brands. Whatever you use,
it’s probably best to minimise your sunscreen use by limiting your
exposure to the sun. Avoid sunbathing and avoid the sun between the 11am and 3pm.
Animal testing
A number of companies are listed as testing products or ingredients
on animals. Brands recommended by one or more animal rights campaigners
are: The Body Shop, Dr Hauschka, Green People, Honesty Cosmetics, Lavera
and Urtekram.
Links
References
1 The Guardian 8/5/04 “made in the shade”.
2 Behind
the Label, Suncream, The Ecologist, 1/7/04
3 http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/411226.stm
3/8/06
4 Routledge, E. J., Parker, J., Odum, J., Ashby, J. and Sumpter,
J. P. 1998. Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservative (parabens) are estrogenic.
Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology 153: 12-19.
5 BBC News online
11/1/04 http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/3383393.stm
6 www.greenpeace.org.uk/Products/Toxics/briefing.cfm
viewed 24/4/06
7 WEN Briefing, Jan 03, “Pretty Nasty, questions
and answers about phthalates” 8 New Scientist, 07/10/00
9
Knowland J, et al. Characterisations of DNA damage inflicted by free radicals
from a mutagenic sunscreen ingredient and its location using an in vitro
genetic reversion assay. Photochemical Photobiology. 1997; 66:276.
10
www.skinbiology.com/toxicsunscreens.html viewed April 2006 12 Guardian
30/704
13 e-mail from Green People 20/4/06
14 Corporate Watch,
February 2005
15 Ecologist, June 2005
16 Clean Clothes Newsletter,
December 2005
17 Clarins 2003 Annual Report
18 Ecologist,
May 2003
19 Open Secrets website, 2002
20 Philadelphia Inquirer,
press release, March 2004