Think global, drink local
Having a quiet bottle of ale after a day of global justice
campaigning can throw up some ethical dilemmas. Lindsay Whalen explains.
Whilst many beers try to bamboozle us with their authenticity,
the reality is that most are owned by a handful of multinationals. Companies
like InBev and Scottish & Newcastle own an array of brands that may at first
appear to be from very distinct companies. InBev's Boddingtons brand advertises
itself as the 'Cream of Manchester', whilst Scottish & Newcastle's Foster's
is alleged to be 'Australian for Beer'. Yet all the clever marketing ploys
can be traced back to the same few parent companies.
No Fibs
The National Organisation for Imported Beers (or No Fibs) was set up
by brewers and importers of European beers produced in their places of origin.
The driving force behind No Fibs is Czech lager Budweiser Budvar, which
prides itself on brewing its lager in Ceske Budejovice, and importing the
authentic product to drinkers all over the world. Heineken is also a member
of No Fibs, and is keen to stress that its lager is authentic and Dutch,
unlike some competitors.
This authenticity argument is compelling, but it only tells half the story.
With climate change on our doorsteps, transporting liquids long distances
is environmental madness. One study into 'beer miles' found that a lager
imported by a multinational company could have travelled up to 24,000 miles
before reaching the consumer.(1)
Helping the little guy
The simple option for those concerned about multinational domination and
climate change is microbreweries. These are independent companies producing
traditional ales, and there are plenty of them all over the UK. A traditional
ale from a local brewery can have a 'beer miles' total of around 600 miles.(1)
This report covers nationally available bottled and canned brands, but there
is no substitute for a beer produced local to you. The Campaign for Real
Ale (Camra) are currently running a campaign for guest beer rights as this
would allow pubs to support local microbreweries.(6)
The government is making some efforts to help smaller brewers stave off
increasing ownership by multinationals in the beer sector. Small brewers
relief or progressive beer duty (PBD) was introduced in 2002, following
a successful run in Germany, where a thriving brewery industry has maintained
its local variation. PBD means that breweries don't pay tax on the first
few thousand barrels produced. The number of small and regional breweries
in the UK has increased by 130 since it was introduced.(6) MPs have recently
signed up to a motion supporting increasing the threshold, and Camra are
urging members to email their MPs in support of the issue.
Advertise responsibly
Another plus side to microbreweries is that they are less likely to be involved
in irresponsible marketing of alcohol. Brand websites for Anheuser Busch,
Heineken, InBev, Molson Coors and Scottish & Newcastle have been criticised
for marketing their products at under-age drinkers.
(2) According to the
report "Clicking with Kids: alcohol marketing and youth on the internet"
by the Center on Alcohol Marketing and Youth at Georgetown University, many
alcohol brands were found to have websites designed in a way which would
appeal to under-age drinkers.
(2) Such youth-friendly elements included:
high levels of animation, music downloads, animated characters on nights
out, downloadable screen savers and wallpapers which were said to "turn
the users' PC into a billboard for the product," drinks quizzes and
a Pick-Up Line Generator based on the personality types 'traditional, sensitive
or desperate.'
(2) Michelob's website was found to include Playboy videos
and photos.(2) Although many sites were said to have a 'card' entrance which
asked the user to declare their age, this was said to be ineffective as
there was no way of verifying the answers.(2) In the six months to December
2003, the report stated that 34% of visitors to the Budlight website and
15.2% of visitors to the Budweiser website admitted to being under 21.(2)
Alcohol Concern aims to reduce alcohol related harm, and is campaigning to ensure
that drinks companies and licensees are committed to selling alcohol responsibly.
Its Promo Busters! initiative is inviting people to take photographs of
any advertising or promotional material that is irresponsible, and email
the details to campaigns@alcoholconcern.org.uk
In particular it is interested
in alcohol being sold on special offer or at irresponsibly cheap prices,
and advertising which makes its stretch a selling point or that makes a
link between alcohol and violence, crime or sexual success.
Organic beers
Supporting organically certified local microbreweries has further benefits
over the conventional, and according to Mintel market research "the
UK is one of the largest producers of organic beer in the world."(4)
The Soil Association currently has 52 organic alcohol producers on the books.(12)
Brands offering organic varieties are highlighted by an [O] on the table.
Organic farming
means working with nature to ensure malt and hop plants are really healthy,
and pests are kept in check by natural predators.(12) Conventional farmers
are estimated to spray hops up to 14 times each year with an average of
15 pesticide products.(12) Working with nature encourages species diversity;
butterflies and other beneficial insects are more abundant on organic farms.(1)
Organic beer also precludes food additives that are sometimes added to
cheap beers. Betaglucanase and propylene glycol alginate can be added to
speed up the brewing process or stabilise the beer's head. Beer companies
are not legally required to list all ingredients on bottles or cans.(5)
If your local pub just won't play ball, you could always try brewing your
own. Organic hops are available from the Seven Bridges Cooperative in the
US, and there is information on its website to get you started (www.breworganic.com).
There are no UK home-brew suppliers currently stocking organic hops that
we know of and whilst importing hops from the US increases beer miles, it
is a lot more efficient than transporting the finished product from the
US.
Something a bit fishy
The main ethical concern with real ale is the use of tropical fish. This
is because cask-conditioned ales need "fining"to clear the yeast
and bits from the ale, and this can be done by adding isinglass which comes
from the swim bladders of tropical fish.(3) Many lagers are pasteurised
and do not require isinglass, but this is not foolproof. None of the multinational
brewers covered in the report replied to requests concerning the vegetarian
suitability of their products. Lagers which have been chill filtered will
be suitable, but consumers preferring real ale should be more wary.
What's vegetarian or vegan
O signifies that an organic variety is available. NB: Many cask versions of the same beers will not be suitable for vegetarians.
Vegan: Budweiser, Cannabia (O), Carlsberg Export, Freedom Organic (O), Fuller's 1845 Celebration, Fuller's Discovery, Fuller's Golden Pride, Fuller's Jack Frost, Fuller's London Porter (O), Fuller's Vintage, Hoegaarden, Pinkus Muller (O), Special Brew, Vintage Roots beer and lager (O)
Vegetarian: Angel Lager (O), Bannockburn, Beck's, Ben Nevis (O),
Black Douglas, Border Gold (O), Brakspear Organic (O), Budvar, Circle Master
(O), Coors, Fuller's Organic Honey Dew (O), The Ghillie, Greenmantle, Grolsch,
Heather Ale Alba, Heather Ale Ebulum, Heather Ale Fraoch, Heather Ale Grozet,
Heather Ale Kelpie, Heineken, Holsten Pils, Lomond Gold (O), Meantime (O),
Merlin's Ale, O'Hanlons, Old Jock, Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Range,
Sheriffmuir, Stirling Brigg
Not vegetarian: Bass, Boddingtons, Brakspear, Carling, Castlemaine
XXXX, Fiddlers Elbow, Fosters, Freedom, Goliath, Hobgoblin, John Smith's,
Kronenbourg 1664, Leffe, Miller Genuine Draft, Newcastle Brown Ale, St Peter's
(O), Tennants, Tetley's, Wychcraft
Ethical Consumer has been unable to find information on Amstel,
Brahma, Corona Extra, Cruzcampo, Peroni Nastro Azzuro, Pilsner Urquell and
Staropramen.
Links
References
1 'Bitter Harvest, Bitter Beer,' Sustain, 1999
2 'Clicking
with Kids: alcohol marketing and youth on the internet,' the Center on Alcohol
Marketing and Youth at Georgetown University 06/05
3 Email from Vegetarian
Society, 5/5/06
4 'Lager,' Mintel 2005
5 'What exactly is
in your beer?' BBC news 1/5/06
6 www.camra.org.uk, viewed on 4/5/06
7 www.hoovers.com, viewed on 05/06
8 www.boycottbush.net,
viewed on 05/06
9 The Ecologist 05/05
10 'S & N Denies Allegations
of unlawful tactics in Russia,' www.guardian.co.uk 26/7/05
11 'Beers,
wine and spirits,' Soil Association 05/06
12 Email from Refresh 8/5/06
13 Email from Freedom Brewing 04/06