We look at some of the toxic ingredients found in cosmetics and toiletries, and how to avoid them.
There are thousands of ingredients used in personal care products, many of them have negative environmental impacts and health effects ranging from skin irritation to carcinogenicity.
Parabens are a group of compounds widely used as antifungal agents, preservatives and antimicrobials in cosmetics and toiletries. Parabens are linked to hormone disruption, reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and skin irritation.
The EU has banned five parabens from cosmetics but not the most common ones used in cosmetic products – methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. However, it has restricted the amounts of these that can be used in products.
Unfortunately, you can’t just look for the word ‘paraben’ on the ingredients list. Your best bet is checking for the three most common options listed above or choosing a product that is marketed as ‘paraben free’.
Triclosan and triclocarban can be used as an antimicrobial in soaps. Its use in toothpaste, mouthwash, deodorants, cosmetics and hand soaps is restricted by the EU whilst the US banned its use in liquid soaps and bars of soap in 2016.
Due to public pressure, most companies have been quietly reformulating their products. In our soap guide, Dettol hand soap was the only product we found that contained triclocarban.
Triclosan, which is classified as a pesticide, can affect the body’s hormone systems – especially thyroid hormones, which regulate metabolism – and may disrupt normal breast development.
The EU classifies triclosan as irritating to the skin and eyes, and as very toxic to aquatic organisms, noting that it may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment. Widespread use of triclosan may also contribute to bacterial resistance to antimicrobial agents.
Phthalates are a group of hormone-disrupting chemicals that are most commonly used to make PVC soft and flexible but are also used as a solvent to dissolve certain ingredients, in cosmetics and to make the smell linger longer in synthetic fragrances. Fragrances are in everything from shampoo to deodorant and laundry detergent.
Several phthalates have been banned in the EU but not all, including diethyl phthalate (DEP).
Phthalate exposure has been linked to early puberty in girls, a risk factor for later-life breast cancer. DEP is listed as a potential hormone disruptor, especially during critical periods of development such as when babies are in the womb. It has also been linked to infertility.
Because the chemical constituents of ‘fragrance’ or ‘parfum’ do not have to be listed on labels, one way to avoid phthalates altogether is to go for fragrance-free products, those free of synthetic fragrances, products that say 'phthalate free', or products that don't have 'parfum' on the label.
Synthetic fragrances are commonly used in personal care products and often contain as many as 200 ingredients. These ingredients are considered to be trade secrets, so companies don’t have to tell us what they are. However, studies suggest a number of possible negative effects of the compounds used to create them including:
They often contain phthalates - see above.
Two of the most widely used detergents and foaming agents in shampoos and liquid soap products are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES). You’ll often find greener products being marketed as SLS-free.
Healthline says that SLS and SLES can be an irritant to people’s eyes, skin, mouth and lungs, if in high concentrations and left on for longer periods of time. Cosmetic products tend to have lower concentrations than for example cleaning products, according to the site.
Skin Deep – a guide to toxic chemicals in cosmetic products, run by research and education organisation the Environmental Working Group – rates SLES as low risk, and SLS as slightly higher risk if used around the eyes.
'Forever chemicals' are commonly used for waterproofing products outdoor gear. These long-lasting chemicals are called PFAs, which stands for poly- and perfluoroalkyl substances, and are resistant to oil and water.
As well use for outdoor gear, they can be used in toiletries and cosmetics. For example, they are used mainly in foundations, lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, and skincare to make them last longer, improve finish, and preserve colour.
However, new legislation is coming in Europe, and France has introduced its own law banning the manufacture, import, export, and sale of PFAS-containing cosmetics. This means multinational companies in particular are beginning to reformulate products ahead of any bans.
To avoid PFAs in toiletries, look out for ingredients containing “fluoro” such as Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) or perfluoro compounds.
Formaldehyde isn't just used in taxidermy. It can also be used as a preservative to prolong shelf life and prevent bacterial contamination.
Formaldehyde is a gas and is banned in cosmetics in the EU, so rather than using pure formaldehyde – and listing it as such on ingredient labels – cosmetic companies often use formaldehyde releasers, ingredients that decompose slowly to release molecules of formaldehyde thereby maintaining a constant level of preservative prolonging the shelf life.
Formaldehyde releasers that you are likely to see in a product include: DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, methylene glycol, quaternium 15, and 3 dioxane. Products have to say if they are using these formaldehyde-releasing chemicals.
Formaldehyde is most likely to cause skin irritation but it is most dangerous when inhaled. Most studies on the cancer potency of formaldehyde have focused on risks from inhalation; cancer risks from ingestion or absorption through the skin are not as well studied. For most products, it is unlikely that formaldehyde would be released into the air.
Although microbeads are banned in “rinse-off” cosmetics like face scrubs, shower gels, and toothpaste, other microplastics can be used in “leave-on” products, especially make-up. Liquid polymers, which are used for film formation, thickening agent, or viscosity regulation, may also be in toiletries and cosmetics.
To avoid microplastics in toiletries look out for these “poly” ingredient words on labels:
Polyethylene (PE), Polypropylene (PP), Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), acrylates copolymer, acrylates crosspolymer, polyacrylamide, polyacrylate, polyurethane, polyvinyl, methyl methacrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer.
And look out for these: nylon (PA), carbomer, PVP, and butylene.
Ethical Consumer guides rate companies on their approach to toxic chemicals, and list toxic-free alternatives in products like make-up, skin care, deodorant, toothpaste and soap.
Pre-2024 we focused on parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates and triclosan as important indicators for our toxics rating. We checked all companies likely to be using these chemicals to see whether they had policies on their use. Their ratings appeared in the Pollution & Toxics section on our score tables:
| Best rating | No use of the three chemicals, or clear, dated targets for ending their use. |
|---|---|
| Middle rating | Some policy on the four, or policy on two of them. |
| Worst rating | Policy on one chemical or no policy/commitment to phase them out. We have highlighted in each guide what the brands scored. |
Our household cleaning shopping guides (laundry detergents, washing-up liquid, dishwasher detergent, toilet cleaners, household cleaners) use an updated toxic chemicals rating called 'harmful ingredients'.
This covers triclosan, phthalates, formaledhyde and parabens but we have added in the use of microplastics and liquid polymers, and PFAs (forever chemicals).
This is the rating we are using from summer 2024. The date of a guide can be found at the start of the text of the article.
We have various shopping guides to health and cosmetic products which will help you find out which brands don't used these chemicals, and which brands to avoid. Links to the guides are below.
We also have a quick guide to some ethical labels for organic and natural cosmetic and skin products, so you know what to look for.
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